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Q: Correct Leg
I have a 7-year-old gelding, who seems to find it difficult
to canter on the correct lead. Sometimes he strikes off correctly, but
more usually
he is incorrect. Even when he is on the correct lead, there are times
when he feels uneven behind. Could you advise on how I can help him please? Liz, Cardiff
Q: Old Tack
A neighbour has recently sold her pony and has a saddle and bridle that she says
I can have. However I am worried about the safety of it, as it is very stiff
and no longer supple. Is there any way I could treat it to make it supple enough
to use again? Lyn, Glasgow
Q: Numnahs
I have recently bought my horse a new saddle. It fits very well and was wondering
if I would therefore require a numnah? Robert, Stafford
Q: Feeding from the Floor
I have been told that I should always feed hay from the floor, is this true? Debbie,
Lancashire
Q:Manes
Is there a correct side for a horse's mane to fall?
If so, which side is it? What can be done with a mane that falls on both
sides of the neck? Sheila, Ceredigion
Correct Leg
A: The key to a good canter is to precede it with a good, balanced trot. Never attempt to canter from an unbalanced trot. If you have a young inexperienced horse, it is easiest to ask for the transition on a gentle curve, this encourages the correct lead. Never rush your transition, so many riders try to 'run' into canter, but this simply encourages the horse to be unbalanced, flat and unresponsive. Instead, the canter should be asked for calmly, using the correct aides, and whilst maintaining an elevated rounded outline. This is attained by the horse using his hocks – not by hands that 'hang on'. Never mistake speed for impulsion! The riders’ body should remain upright and balanced (never be tempted to lean into the canter) and the outside leg – just behind the girth. The inside hand “suggests” the way of going, and the outside hand supports the neck and prevents over-bending. The inside leg creates the necessary impulsion. Remember that the horses’ head and neck moves considerably during canter, and your hands must be responsive enough to allow for this, without totally losing contact. Never ask a young or inexperienced horse to be too collected, as this could cause a loss of engagement from the hindquarters. If your horse is disunited, go back to trot, re-establish your balance and ask again. If in doubt, you should seek professional advice. Most riding establishments will allow you to book your horse and yourself in for a short course of lessons, alternatively, simply ask an experienced rider to watch you canter and offer advice.
Always Jogging
A: Most horses tend to come home quicker than they go out, though there is no excuse for jogging. Apart from the cooling down issue, it also puts enormous strain on the tendons, and jars the legs. Just because your horse is 13 years old, it does not mean that you cannot take him “back to basics” with his schooling. Find a flat piece of field (or hire a school or manege) and quietly work your horse in large circles in walk and trot, encourage a lengthening of the rein and lowering of the head. Use voice commands to reinforce your request for calmness, these can then be used when out on a hack. One very effective way of helping prevent the jogging is to make sure that you change your routes home as much as possible. Also calmly stroke your horses neck whilst he is walking – stopping immediately that he jogs. Encourage him to stretch long and low, as in the schooling sessions. Sometimes a calmer companion horse can help. Lungeing also helps to reinforce the basic aides.
Old Tack
A: First of all you must be absolutely sure that it will fit your pony correctly. If you are not 100% confident of being able to ensure this, ask an expert to fit it for you. If the tack is suitable, the next job is to make sure of its safety. Take the bridle completely apart and wipe any mould off with a dry cloth. Never try to wash mould off, as it will be absorbed into the leather. Do the same with the saddle, removing any parts such as stirrup leathers etc. Next, wipe the leather over with a damp sponge and leave to dry naturally. Never put damp leather near heat to speed up the drying process, as this will simply dry out and crack the leather still further. Now apply neatsfoot oil (or equivalent preservative) and rub well in. Pay particular attention to the rough side of the leather as this absorbs more easily. Repeat this process a few times over a number of days until the leather looks “well fed”. Finally give a good rub over with saddle soap, again working well in. If the buckles are brass they should shine up, if they appear damaged or rusty however, they will need replacing. Both the saddle and bridle ought to be checked by a saddler to allow any necessary repairs to be completed. Do not be tempted to use the tack until it has first been thoroughly checked for both fitting and safety.
Numnahs
A: Numnahs should never be bought to make-up for an ill-fitting saddle anyway!
However there are many benefits to using a numnah, as long as it is carefully
chosen. These benefits include:
(a) It is more flexible than the often unyielding underside of a saddle, and
so may cause less friction.
(b) It helps horses with cold backs. (This is where a horse shows resistance
when first saddled up)
(c) It will prevent the saddle from becoming dirty
(d) It absorbs the horse's sweat
However, there are points that must be remembered when choosing and fitting
a numnah. The numnah MUST fit the saddle for which it is being bought – there
must be at least half an inch showing around the saddle after it has been
pulled well up into the gullet, allowing a flow of air along the spine. If
it is too
small it will cause pressure, especially if tight on the withers. It must
always be kept clean and therefore a spare is essential (whilst one is being
washed
and dried, the spare can be used) There are many different types of numnah,
but the quilted numnahs made from cotton are comfortable to the horse, reasonably
priced and easily cared for. Sheepskin numnahs have always been popular,
but are more expensive and take a little effort to care for. Whichever numnah
you
choose it should always be made out of natural fibres.
If you are only doing light work and decide to go without a numnah, clean
the underside of the saddle EVERY time you use it, as grease and dirt will
make
your horses’ back sore.
Feeding from the Floor
A: It is certainly the most natural place for a horse to eat from, just think where he gets his food from in his natural state! There are certain considerations you need to look at though. Firstly, does your horse stale on food fed from the floor? If so, he may not be eating the quantity that you think. Secondly, though it is more natural to feed from ground level, it can be extremely wasteful, and you may need to give smaller feeds more often to prevent this waste. If you do decide not to feed off the floor, you can use either haynets or hay racks, this is a matter of preference. The disadvantage of nets is that the horse can become tangled up in them, especially when empty, or if secured incorrectly. Mangers do not have this problem, though as with both, the correct height is essential. Too high and the horse will have to stretch, too low and again he could get caught up in it. It is also worth mentioning that with both nets and mangers, seeds can drop into your horses’ eyes. If feeding outside in the paddock, it is usually best to feed from the ground, but remember to always place at least two more piles than there are horses to prevent anyone from being unable to get to the hay. Ideally, the more piles the better.
I always feed hay from the floor, yes it can be a little wasteful, and yes sometimes the horse may stale (or worse) on it, however they won't eat that bit, and I find that most, if not all of it is eaten before they do this anyway. The points mentioned are valid but the most important one as far as I'm concerned, is the damage to the neck and spine which can be caused from constantly pulling at hay from this unnatural angle. You only have to watch your horse as he grabs, pulls and twists in his battle to get the hay out as quickly as possible, this applies even more to the greedy ones who don't want to eat slowly. I have known people to use nets with smaller holes, in an attempt to slow down their horses eating, this only makes the horse more frustrated and therefore grabs and twists his neck to a greater degree. The angle of feeding like this is also not as functional, it is the complete opposite to normal, head up while feeding, to head down, the whole process is reversed. If we want to strive toward a more natural and comfortable way of providing for our horses, in what we must realise is a very unnatural lifestyle, then we must stop worrying about a little wasted hay, and consider the damage that we can inflict (unknowingly) by our feeding habits. There is no safe way to hang a hay net, they are either low enough to be hooked with a raised leg, or high enough to have falling seeds causing damage to the eyes, I have even seen a horse with a net wrapped around it's neck, causing a severe panic attack (and not just to the horse!)
See also this
article on 24-hour turnout
Manes
A: Obviously, the horse who lives in the wild
requires his mane for warmth and protection. To him it is irrelevant which
side it falls on, so long as
it does its job! Indeed, both sides would be preferable to him, as more of
the crest and neck would then be protected. However, the domesticated horse
is expected to comply with our needs and desires a little more! Especially
in the show ring.
The mane should fall on the offside of the neck, and if encouraged from an early
age this is seldom a problem. However, due to a number of reasons (rubbing, bad
mane pulling and sweet itch to name but a few) the mane can sometimes fall on
both sides. If this happens the mane should be dampened and then loose plaited
(left long), allowing it to fall on the offside. The loose plaits can be left
in all day, but care must be taken to ensure that the horse does not rub them.
Each day undo the plaits and run your fingers through the mane with a little
baby oil. It will take time and patience, but there are very few manes that cannot
be re-tamed in time. If the mane is thick or unruly it will need to be pulled.
Care should be taken and mane pulling should only be attempted by an experienced
person. A little and often is best so as not to make the crest sore. Only ever
take 2 or 3 hairs at a time, and always take from the underside. It is less painful
for the horse if the mane is pulled after work, when the horse is warm and the
pores are open. Never cut a mane, this will always look unnatural no matter how
careful you are. If you are in any doubt, always seek assistance.