Top 5 Myths about Horses

Bigger Bits Vs The Horse

by Cathie Hatrick-Anderson of Bobcat Farm

Count down to the top five myths about horses

5 If I give my horse treats he'll love and respect me.

4 If I blanket and stall my horse he'll stay warm happy and healthy.

3 Keeping my horse shod will keep his feet healthy.

2 You'll outgrow your love of horses.

And the number 1 lie we've all bought into - If your horse is out of control, you need to buy a bigger bit!

Maybe I'm thinking too much like a woman but believing a bigger bit will help your troubled relationship with your horse would be akin to believing threats of violence to force submission would mend a troubled relationship between two people.

Picture a cozy cafe, you've caught someone's eye. They march over grunt something you can't quite make out, then grab you by the hair to take you to their cave. Would you go willingly?

On the other hand, if they took the time to get to know you. Politely asked for your hand then communicated in a way that made you feel comfortable and safe, odds are you'd go willingly; at least onto the dance floor.

I may be reaching a bit here (no pun intended) but horses and women have a few things in common, if you consider they both have a strong desire to please. Treated with love and respect, compassion and fairness they will do just about anything for their partner if asked the right way. We as humans need to learn "The right way" to ask our horses for what we want. We are the one with the bigger brain. Let's get out of the dark ages. It's about time we started using more brain, and less brawn.
I'm certainly not negating the fact that horses need discipline, and they are very powerful animals. If I had to ride my horse in a severe bit, I woudn't ride him at all.

One of the perks of my job is working with many different horses in a variety of settings. Something that I've found to be an absolute truth is this; not only do our horses need a leader, they long for one. By having you as their leader a lot of pressure is lifted from their shoulders. They no longer need to fret over the ever changing scary sights and sounds in their environment. They will look to you the calm one, and asses your demeanor. Are you walking fearlessly or hesitating with each step ready to jump, should your horse jump?

A horse that is being led by someone who is afraid knows this immediately. He doesn't even need to smell his handler as his handler has already given him four or five signs that he's a pushover (certainly no-one that will protect him)! A horse that is usually spooky, pushy or totally out of control, will change in a matter of moments when handled by a confident leader that doesn't allow this behavior. That same horse many times will bring his nose to that person's hand or body and smell very hard, somehow they are amazed that their new leader acts and smells differently, and they begin to relax. Believe me. I'm not dreaming this - I see it all the time.

This is a fact, If you have a calm demeanor but are ready to correct, then redirect your horses feet out of your space he'll learn to calm down. If you get tense don't correct and move out of your horse's way. He will continue to spook at everything and oblige you by stepping all over you. Your horse will be a danger not only to you but to himself, and anyone in his path.

Chains over the nose don't control a horse anymore than bits in their mouth, good training does

As responsible horse owners it is our job (if we profess to care about our horses) to provide them with a leader that is confident, assertive, patient and kind. All horses thrive on praise and discipline. Let's forget about a bigger bit for a moment. We need to start focussing on our relationship on the ground if we expect to retain it under saddle. We should want to know what makes our horse tick before we climb aboard. What does he like? What annoys him? I'm sure our horses would like to get a feel for us before we ever take up the reins. This relationship could mean the difference between success or failure, a great ride or a trip to the ER.

If your horse is disobedient it's not because he wants to fight you. He is not a predator he is a prey animal at your mercy. He is just trying to protect himself the best way he knows how. If your horse can't trust you to keep him safe then you can't trust him to keep you safe.

Horses that grab the bit, run through, or brace against it; pull the reins out of your hand, shake their heads, open their mouths, swish their tails, pin their ears; rear buck and bolt do all these things out of pain and frustration from a lack of communication between themselves and their riders. Most of this pain is caused by the bit. Why do we continue to buy into the lie that our horses are just being defiant stubborn or lazy?
They may have some of those tendencies but I'm sure if they knew a way to avoid the pain from the bit or a chain over the nose they would take it.

Most riders are taught to pull or squeeze their fingers on the reins until the horse comes to a halt. The problem lies in the lack of an immediate release. It's not so hard to teach a rider to lightly squeeze the hard part is teaching them to let go immediately after a gentle request.

The rider is afraid the horse won't stop and he probably won't at first. Has he ever been given a chance? This is where retraining of the horse and rider come in. The horse is thinking he won't get a release because every time he hears you say whoa or feels you prepare to stop he knows his mouth is going to get pulled on till he halts so to prepare himself he braces against the pressure of the bit to ease the pain he knows he's going to feel. It doesn't matter how soft a rider's hands are, if they sustain that squeeze more than a second it's making that horse very uncomfortable.
To begin to correct this lack of communication let's start on the ground.

Part two

Set up 3 or 4 cones in a 30-50ft circle. Your horse is outfitted in a rope halter with a lead rope attached. As you walk your horse, keep your shoulder even with his. Have him stop at every cone.

To make your horse keep up with your feet, you need to hold a dressage/stockmans whip in your left hand to tap his feet up to yours. This will prevent him from hanging back. This is the important part, instead of just saying woah and pulling simultaneously on the lead as your horse hits the halter and shoots out ahead of you; try this. About two feet before you get to the point where you are going to stop, say his name very softly and slowly B-u-c-k-yyyyy w-oooo-a-h. As you say this lean your body backwards a little and lift up on your lead rope, you are NOT pulling back towards you horse's chest. If Bucky hasn't stopped moving his feet by now you needn't feel any guilt for giving him a swift correction. A quick snap to his halter via your lead rope. Now back him up where he came from.

Bucky is never allowed to shoot ahead of you. Remember do not hold him choked up tight to prevent him from moving, he can hold himself without your help. Hold your rope loosely and if he takes a step correct him again. He should stand on a loose line until you ask him to head for the next cone. Horses stand around all day.

Once your horse is consistently stopping very softly as you raise your hand up toward his cheek, and walking when you walk, without having to tap him up, or even say his name anymore because he is paying attention to your every step, you are ready to try some work under saddle.

I like to retrain using a Dr. Cooks bitless bridle or a Double Diamond rope halter with clip on reins attached. (I clip the reins right behind the knots on his nose, catching both strands. It can only slide so far before his jowls will stop it from sliding further.) If you are using a bit, a plain snaffle will do.
You are going to repeat the same steps you did on the ground.Your horse should understand the drill by now. Your horse is going to receive all of these cues to help him get this right.

1. Approach your cone, about two feet before you get there, shorten your reins. You have a rein in each hand even if you ride western as I do.

2. Slowly say his name, Bucky knows this means you are going to ask for something. Follow this with a-n-d w-o-a-h.
3. You sit deep, press your fanny down or even rock one cheek at a time. Either way imagine you are trying to squash a bug under your butt. Sorry that's the best I can come up with at the moment.
(Try to do 1-3 at the same time.)
4. Gently squeeze your fingers on the reins. Now release, do not hang on those reins! He is going to learn to stop his forward motion without you hanging on to him.

Now give him a big rub if he stopped. If he didn't stop don't worry. I have a solution and it shouldn't take him more than 3-10 cones to get this. Remember we are teaching something new, be patient with him and yourself, as he is not the only one that needs retraining.

If he dosn't stop once you release your fingers, give him a little correction by giving a sharp quick snap of the reins on your bitless bridle or rope halter, a slight seesaw if using a bit. The last thing you want to do is make his mouth any less responsive than it already is. We certainly don't want to hurt him in such a sensitive area. Just enough to give him a slight irritation. Now take all of the slack out of your reins, and prepare to make him back up. You are not going to pull hard, just maintain steady contact with his nose/mouth depending on what you are using till he finds it uncomfortable enough to back up, even one foot [ed: hoof not 12"] is enough. If all you can get is a try maybe a slight softening of his neck instead of a brace; that should make you smile. Next time hold till you actually get a step. Now release him and ask him to stand on a loose rein. If he walks off, correct then back him one step. Bucky has to learn he can avoid a correction and more work by standing on a loose rein. Eventually he'll choose to stop on your slightest suggestion.

Go onto your next cone repeating steps 1-4. Repetition and patience will pay off. Once he is stopping consistently at the walk you can try the trot. I wouldn't be in a hurry - you don't want to lose all you have gained by rushing things. By asking for many transitions from the walk to halt and back instead of just walking, your horse will really have to focus on what you are going to ask next. If you are uncertain about trying this without a bit then place a rope halter over your bridle should you need your bit it's right there.

I would like to challenge you to give this a try. Your horse really deserves a chance to avoid all the pain and discomfort a bit can cause from uneducated hands. Or the pain from a chain over his nose. These are super sensitive areas. If your horse came to you with this problem it's not your fault, the damage was already done and maybe you are just not sure how to fix it. If you think you caused your horse to become unresponsive to the bit, don't worry he'll forgive you.

I can't even explain what a difference the ground work will make except to say, Oh what a feeling! I'm pretty sure your horse would trade all the treats in the world for an understanding between you and he that didn't ever require pulling on his mouth with a piece of metal.

For more information please visit www.bobcatfarm.com

Dr Cook Bitless Bridles, rope halters and training ropes are available online in the UK from www.bitlessbridle.co.uk

For information on some of the other 'Myths', see 24-hour turnout article and barefoot horse article

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